Anyone who's ever used a router understands the satisfaction that a cleanly cut rabbet or mortise can give. But if you're working on small-scale projects, such as jewelry boxes or models, that monster three-horsepower fixed-base router with the 1/2-inch bit is simply overkill.
That's where the Dremel 335 comes in. This plunge-router adapter is meant to be used with the Dremel rotary tools (models 400, 398, 395, 300, 285, and 275), which accommodate 1/8-inch diameter bits. If you already own one of these tools, buying the attachment is a great way to get an instant router without having to shell out the extra forty or fifty bucks for a single-purpose machine (that may be too big for what you're doing anyway).
Assembling the attachment is simple: just remove the housing cap from your Dremel, reassemble the collet nut, then place the tool into the router attachment. The tool is secured in the attachment with a mounting nut and wrench (both included).
The attachment features two plunge depths, which are locked in via a rotary hand grip. Setting routing depth can be a little tricky: it's a good idea to practice on scrap until you get a feel for it. The clear base gives you good stability and lets you see exactly what you're doing, as does the narrow profile of the Dremel tool itself. The attachment also includes an adjustable edge guide that works very well.
If you're working on small projects are willing to experiment with the settings, this is the router for you.
--Josh DettweilerIncluded with this ProductPlunge-router attachment, edge guide, circle cutting guide, mounting wrench, instructions
Customer Reviews & CommentsDremel has really upgraded with this new plunge router attachment for the rotary tool. It fits all the usual corded tools and even the new Li-Ion cordless! Great new features like: Plunge capability, clear base, bigger base, rotary tool mounting is very sturdy and rigid, depth stop, big edge guide that goes all the way to the bit. The locking handle takes a little getting used to. Because it locks with one handle and plasic was used for the base there is a little flex back after locking. Plastic for the base to be clear is a benefit, but the plastic for the top plate was probably to save cost so they could price it closer to what the old router was. Anyway, when I really want to be accurate with my depth, I make sure to measure the distance from the bottom of the base to the bit with a metal scale. That way I know the depth is what I want. If it was all metal I'd give it a 5, but then the cost would probably keep me from buying it. It's great for the small router jobs I do(signs, door striker plate installation etc.) and I would recommend it!
